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Niamh & Matthew - We are teachers working internationally. We met in Togo, West Africa and most recently lived in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. We both love to travel and visit new places - especially by bike.

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Copyright 2019 by Pedalgogy

Halfway to Somewhere- Summary

July 6, 2016

Link to interactive route map for Turkey here.

 

I am now in a small town called Tercan on the northern edge of Southeastern Anatolia, Turkey. 

 

I've covered roughly 1400km in 15 cycling days. I am a day ahead of schedule. Feeling good after a rest day yesterday in Erzurum and the ride today, which was the easiest loaded 100km ride I have ever had.

 

I have some time to kill in my 'hotel' room which has cost about 8 pounds (perhaps I should be thinking in dollars or euros these days though- I'd feel like it was even more of a bargain).

 

The only foreign tourists that I have seen in a week have been other cyclist, heading in the opposite direction.  I've had nice chats with them whilst covertly checking out their set-ups. They had great stories to tell and were keen to get advice on Central Asia's particulars from me.

 

As I have the same distance again to Antalya, this seems like a good opportunity to summarize the ride thus far. However, I am thinking about pushing west as far as Pumukkale before the flight I have booked from Antalya to Aktau in Kazakhstan to re-enter Uzbekistan from the westernmost point, just east of where the Caspian sea becomes desert.

 

Some points of clarification first:

 

-An average cycling day has involved slowly packing both belongings and carbs in the morning. I am on holiday after all and I don't want to do myself a mischief.

 

-The screenshots below correspond to days 1 through 15 although I chose slightly longer, calmer route from Oltu south and then West on Day 14.

 

-I normally leave at 8-9am, stopping after 50km for whatever I have or can find for lunch and some shade.

 

-Rock up to a town at about 4-5pm and ask around for accommodation. Paying about 15 pound. 

 

-As one Belgian cyclist I met in Georgia said, "I am not a camper". But we both have gear accounting for about half our load of luggage 'just in case'.

 

-I'm carrying about 20kilos in front and rear panniers with an easily detachable handlbar bag, plus extras on the rear rack top, all on a heavy steel bike. It feels great though; I highly recommend the VSF TX-400, which I call Farhod.

 

DAY 1- Baku (Azerbaijan) to Qobustan. Sea level through yellow ocher plains and steady winding climbs.

 

DAY 2- Qobustan to Lahic. The high Caucasus reveal themselves. Valley ups and downs,  through fertile farm land.

 

DAY 3- Lahic to Oguz.

Forests and fairly flat. Small villages, all the way tracking mountains to the north.

 

DAY 4- Oguz to Kis.

Farmers display their produce at roadside.  Gradual climbs then suddenly up into Sheki.

 

DAY 5- Kis to Zaqatala. 
Rivers plunge from the mountains. The route is flat and pleasant on good roads.

 

DAY 6- Zaqatala to Signhaghi (Georgia).
Rolling farmland, tractors at the quiet border. Nasty dogs. 50km across a plain before the tough climb.

 

DAY 7- Signhaghi to Tbilisi.
Beautiful old town and then down, on a busy and dangerous road right in to the capitals centre.

 

DAY 8- Tbilisi to Ayrum (Armenia).
Steady but busy climb up and out. Change of scenery to rock formations at a gorges northern head.

 

DAY 9- Ayrum to Vanazdor.
Following the Debed canyon and river the wrong way. Tough climbs and thin road.

 

DAY 10- Vanazdor to Gyumri. 
A wonderful ride through stunning valleys, over pristine passes with views of Mount Ararat.

 

DAY 11- Vardzia to Posof (Turkey).
From a cliff face ancient city down to the garrisoned town of Akhaltsikhe. Into Turkey the hilly way.

 

DAY 12- Posof to Ardahan.
Major climbs. Roadworks. Rewarding riding from one high town to the next.

 

DAY 13- Ardahan to Oltu.
Steady climbing to Gole and then down, for 25km, back in to more stark surroundings.

 

DAY 14- Oltu to Erzurum.
A 2400m pass midway via the quieter D road south and then west across a plain before a fair bump to the city.

 

DAY 15- Erzurum to Tercan.
Easy riding with a nice tailwind. One big climb but the descent was longer and satisfying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to interactive route map for Turkey here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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